00:02
all right well Brenda pigs so happy to
00:04
have you as our third guest on the
00:06
everyday enthusiast you are a gemologist
00:08
a jewelry enthusiast the host of a
00:11
podcast so why don't just tell me a
00:14
little bit I mean I was looking at you
00:15
up and I saw that you graduated from the
00:17
gemologist Gemological Institute of
00:19
Arizona that's like the biggest school
00:22
for technology right right Gemological
00:25
Institute of America and they're
00:27
actually the organization that set the
00:30
standards for Gemological learning and
00:33
they also set the standards for the
00:35
diamond grading system that we use to
00:38
current time as far as distinguishing
00:41
and establishing the value of diamonds
00:43
so they're very instrumental in
00:46
continuing learning but also they have a
00:49
whole backdrop behind them including a
00:51
laboratory so if there's any kind of
00:54
disputable question about whether a
00:58
gemstone or a diamond is natural you
01:01
know it's it's country of origin they
01:05
have a full laboratory with all kinds of
01:08
gemologists with experience who can
01:10
identify that and verify its
01:13
authenticity whether its natural or
01:15
lab-created and nowadays I don't know if
01:19
any of your listeners realize but most
01:22
every gemstone can be lab created and
01:24
most recently they've perfected that
01:26
with diamonds so yeah yeah it's pretty
01:31
interesting and diamonds having a higher
01:33
value of one of the highest values it
01:36
can be kind of a sticky situation if a
01:40
diamond isn't established or declared
01:44
whether or not it's been lab created or
01:46
natural so those about is there how do
01:50
you do that testing like how is that
01:52
testing done exactly you know they're
01:55
still coming out with tools and machines
01:57
to to distinguish that and I haven't
02:02
done a whole lot of research behind it
02:04
but once again GI a Gemological
02:07
Institute of America is one of those
02:09
organizations that will accurately
02:11
identify
02:13
so they're still working on that and
02:16
anybody with a really good reputation in
02:19
the jewelry industry is going to protect
02:20
that and make sure that the consumer
02:22
knows whether or not a diamond has been
02:25
lad created or not interesting and I
02:28
know Arizona also has like a bunch of
02:30
gem shows is there a reason why like the
02:33
gemstone industry has a lot of
02:34
prominence in the Arizona's there's
02:36
something about that the geography of
02:38
that area possibly but I do know that a
02:43
long time ago I'd have to look at my my
02:45
history but possibly in the 50s a big
02:49
gem show started in Arizona it started
02:52
with their their gem and mineral
02:55
collectors there and it moved to a
02:58
fairgrounds and after that it just
03:01
became so big that it's in February and
03:05
then I think in the fall there's a big
03:08
gem show in Arizona in Tucson Arizona
03:11
yeah and there could be some reason for
03:14
that you know back when it's all started
03:17
a lot of rock hounds probably gathered
03:18
in I love that yeah yeah so yeah oh it's
03:26
it's wonderful if you ever get a chance
03:28
to go and a lot of these places are open
03:31
to the public so that makes it nice the
03:35
Pueblo Gem show is probably one of the
03:37
better ones to go to as far as being
03:39
open to the public a lot of them are
03:42
closed to the public and only open to
03:44
the trade so it's a neat experience
03:46
they've got dinosaur fossils and all
03:49
kinds of different gemstones and it's
03:53
it's a pretty cool experience do you
03:56
frequently attend these trade shows for
03:58
gemstones and jewelry I do yes most of
04:04
the shows I attend are closed to the
04:06
public they're only open to the trade
04:09
and because I'm considered a pres
04:11
someone from the press because I do
04:13
stories with a lot of the designers they
04:17
they allow me in but what's kind of an
04:21
interesting with the Cova dices is that
04:24
all of those shows including you know
04:26
the conventions and meetings and things
04:29
like that across this world of course
04:31
that they canceled so learning how to
04:33
connect and serve both ends of the trade
04:37
both the stores the shop owners the
04:40
manufacturers and the consumers is going
04:43
to be an interesting evolution in the
04:45
coming months and with that like before
04:50
this crisis happened was what's the
04:52
biggest difference between the events
04:54
you'd go to that would be for retailers
04:56
and not better not open to the public
04:58
versus the ones that were open to the
04:59
public was it more kind of fun exhibits
05:02
for the public ones or like what's the
05:03
biggest difference between those two
05:06
probably the biggest difference is a lot
05:10
of the vendors or the companies that are
05:13
represented and show up at these shows
05:15
they're larger manufacturers and they
05:19
only sell to stores boutiques and shop
05:23
owners so therefore it's a wholesale
05:26
event and the ones that are open to the
05:30
public
05:30
they Sutton will have special if you
05:34
have a tax ID if you have a business
05:36
then you can purchase wholesale but
05:38
mostly the ones that are open to the
05:40
public they only sell they only sell
05:43
retail
05:43
I'd imagine a lot of money being
05:45
exchanged they probably want to have
05:47
that open to the public
05:48
per se true yeah but think they work
05:53
that out with you know orders and things
05:55
are delivered after their show they
05:58
don't have to yeah yeah yeah it's a
06:00
whole world that you you don't really
06:02
understand logistics of so basically the
06:05
shows are a way for companies designers
06:08
and small jewelry businesses to showcase
06:12
what they do and what they make and then
06:15
the stores the boutique owners go you
06:18
know to the booths and they can even set
06:21
up appointments to go and shop what's
06:23
new new collections they can start with
06:27
you know a small collection or signing
06:30
up to it's not necessarily a contract
06:32
but it's it works somewhat like that and
06:37
then the stores will you know there
06:40
there they carry that particular brand
06:44
or that particular type of jewelry in
06:47
their store interesting yeah I never
06:50
think about it like you know how exactly
06:52
these things are obtained I think it's
06:53
you're right it's a whole unknown world
06:55
that the general public has no idea of I
06:57
mean probably my the extent of my
07:00
experience is the beginning of the movie
07:02
uncut gems which I watched a couple
07:04
months ago I'm assuming you saw that it
07:08
was really really good and I mean it's
07:11
kind of a subplot but they talked in the
07:13
beginning there's a whole scene about
07:15
the mining and excavating and there's
07:17
this that's exactly what kind of gem but
07:19
it's kind of the plot device that drives
07:22
the whole story is this very rare gem
07:25
that he gets from Africa that he spent
07:26
like 175 thousand dollars on definitely
07:29
recommend it but um it's just crazy it's
07:31
the it's life-threatening the the work
07:34
that these men and women - you know that
07:36
they put themselves through - to go
07:39
through this and it's a very dangerous
07:42
job you know and it's just fascinating
07:45
and people just don't know about it
07:48
and that's and I'm in I'm assuming
07:50
that's probably one of the things you
07:52
talk about in your podcast the jewelry
07:53
navigator what did you start that
07:55
podcast I started a little over two
07:58
years ago and I started just as an
08:01
interest I've worked in the retail
08:04
sector most of my career with with
08:07
jewelry and then in between beginning my
08:10
career with jewelry and finishing with
08:13
Gemological Institute of America I took
08:16
a small hiatus and flew as a flight
08:18
attendant and that's why my name jewelry
08:20
navigator is is the way Hillary and yeah
08:24
and so once I got back into the retail
08:29
sector I found that people were wanting
08:31
to they were more curious about jewelry
08:35
that was really different that was not
08:38
being mass-produced
08:39
and there's a there's a subculture of
08:42
people who want really different things
08:43
they don't want to look like everybody
08:45
else and I'm kind of in that subculture
08:47
I don't think I really appreciate the
08:50
unique and unusual things and I love
08:53
education
08:53
people on gemstones that they may not be
08:55
familiar with there are a lot of really
08:58
interesting ones and you know more
09:01
interesting than the common ones so it's
09:04
it's a really fun kind of sort of that
09:06
was a fun hobby to educate consumers and
09:09
then once I started finding these
09:12
designers who just make really cool
09:15
jewelry like one that I first started
09:18
following her husband has a an auto body
09:21
repair shop and they he only works on
09:24
high-end luxury cars and she's a metal
09:28
she's a metal Smith and walked into the
09:31
garage one day I thought what are we
09:32
going to do with all these car parts
09:34
well she put two and two together and
09:36
started making jewelry from them so she
09:38
makes jewelry from Ferraris Maseratis
09:42
Bentley's I'm really high-end cars so
09:46
she started yeah it's really cool and
09:50
those are the kind of things that I
09:51
really appreciate and I love telling
09:53
their stories and that's how the podcast
09:55
started because I kept finding these
09:58
designers and and other gemologists who
10:01
are also jewelers who really appreciate
10:04
what I do and I I love being able to
10:07
first first of all educate consumers and
10:10
help them not be afraid to shop for
10:12
jewelry that might be a little bit
10:13
different but also what I'm starting to
10:16
do is hopefully connect the designers
10:20
with small businesses other small
10:23
jewelry stores who might be interested
10:25
in sharing these kind of things too so
10:27
either way my mission is to connect
10:30
consumers to these designers who are
10:34
making things that are just outstanding
10:37
and can really stand up to speaking for
10:42
someone's uniqueness and wanting to be
10:45
different that's really interesting the
10:48
the DIY sector of jewelry people don't
10:51
know about like the Etsy world we have a
10:54
lot of shops featured on our gemstones a
10:57
category and so we have a lot of these
10:59
different Etsy shops and they'll take
11:00
from a can of coke and they'll make a
11:02
cool little thing it's just so
11:03
fascinating the beautiful artistry that
11:06
can come from the
11:07
simple items yeah so have you always
11:10
been a jewelry enthusiast or is there a
11:13
moment in your life where you realize
11:14
just this is my thing now like what
11:17
sparked this for you or can even
11:20
pinpoint it yeah I can yeah ever since I
11:24
was a child I thought gemstones looked
11:27
like candy and always so it started with
11:32
like an obsession with candy and ever
11:36
since then I've just always loved
11:38
jewelry and when I got into college I
11:41
took basic geology class and towards the
11:47
end of the class when all the concepts
11:49
started to come together my mind just
11:51
started exploding I thought this is
11:53
exactly what I want to do I don't I
11:56
don't care where I go with it I just
11:58
want to know more I want to be able to
11:59
get out there and understand you know
12:01
how the rocks were formed in and see all
12:04
of those processes so once I got through
12:09
that and was finishing up my degree at
12:12
the time I wasn't interested in working
12:15
in oil I wasn't interested in working
12:17
with contaminated water which kind of
12:22
worker the things that we're going on
12:24
there are still very important but I
12:27
knew I always loved gemstones so I did a
12:29
little digging and learned that GI a
12:31
existed a school specifically teaching
12:35
people more about gemstones and gemology
12:38
and jewelry and the courses taught me
12:43
how to grade a diamond how to identify
12:47
diamonds that are higher quality than
12:49
others and it also taught me how to
12:52
identify gemstones so not all red
12:54
gemstones are rubies and not all green
12:57
gemstones are emeralds there are a lot
12:59
of other ones so those kind of
13:02
determining factors can also determine
13:04
the value for the gemstones but also its
13:08
durability and how well it stands out to
13:12
wear so all of these things combined
13:14
make it really important for someone to
13:17
be able to
13:19
and and know those kind of qualities of
13:23
a gemstone because ultimately it
13:26
contributes to how how long it's going
13:29
to last absolutely now yeah because I'm
13:34
thinking if you're somebody that's
13:36
shopping for gemstones you want to be an
13:37
educated consumer you don't want to buy
13:39
a fake perhaps or something with your
13:42
education and experience you can are you
13:45
able to just kind of examine things with
13:46
your eyes like you don't is there
13:48
equipment involved like I know they've
13:51
got those little that device that you
13:53
can kind of go over diamonds and will go
13:56
up and down and indicate it do you use
13:58
those tools or you can you just tell
13:59
from just looking at it if it's a fake
14:01
or not that's a really good question
14:03
there are tools that will positively
14:06
identify gemstones and some of them are
14:11
a little technical to use buy in general
14:16
most jewelry that's out on the market
14:18
today purchased in the big box stores
14:21
it's pretty easily recognizable but like
14:25
any scientist we don't want to look at
14:27
something and mostly identify it and
14:30
have it come back as being something
14:32
else so as a gemologist I am able to
14:38
identify gemstones and some of those
14:39
characteristics can be determined by
14:42
inclusions there are certain inclusions
14:45
that are inherent in certain gemstones
14:47
and not in others so that kind of using
14:51
you know the deductive reasoning and
14:54
there are other other indicators as far
14:59
as how fast light travels through the
15:03
gemstone can be measured and that in
15:06
itself is an identifying factor it's
15:08
called refractive index
15:10
so there are optical properties that we
15:12
can look at as well to identify
15:14
gemstones absolutely so in general I can
15:19
look at it and if it's something that's
15:21
um you know pretty most of the time I
15:24
can look at something and say yes this
15:26
is this is an emerald or it's most
15:28
likely a lab-created
15:30
gemstone which is a whole
15:33
warms and itself because lab land
15:37
created gemstones have been around for
15:39
longer than most people realize yeah I
15:42
bet something that a gemologist might
15:46
encounter do you get calls often when
15:48
your friends are engaged and like can
15:49
you tell me if this is fake has that
15:53
ever happened oh boy I would yeah yeah
15:56
yeah yeah you really you really hope
15:59
that doesn't happen but nowadays there
16:03
there are some great alternatives to
16:05
diamonds but but the the rule of thumb
16:11
is you always want to be transparent and
16:14
honest with people you starting from the
16:17
very start so if if someone can't afford
16:20
a diamond right in a way it's okay
16:22
there are great alternatives that are a
16:24
fraction of the costs of the diner but
16:26
yeah
16:27
but the most important thing is that
16:28
they know what it is any gemstone can be
16:33
a girl's best friend it doesn't have to
16:34
be diamonds absolutely and in fact I'm
16:38
kind of partial to color gemstones
16:40
myself
16:40
I think diamonds are great Jack like
16:42
color is just it's it's the best right
16:47
on okay it's starting to wrap things up
16:49
here
16:49
um so I can see that jewelry and
16:53
gemstones it's kind of rising in
16:55
popularity may be due to crystal healing
16:58
and the whole wellness popularity and
17:00
fad that's going on for the past couple
17:02
years actually do you as somebody with
17:05
so much experience do you see that as
17:06
kind of a lot of gobbledygook or do you
17:09
do you think there's some kind of maybe
17:11
some magic behind it you know I've never
17:14
really researched that and I've never
17:16
really tested out out on myself I'm not
17:20
going to I'm not going to say either way
17:23
because I've never I don't I don't know
17:26
I don't I don't think that there's any
17:28
reason why there couldn't be some kind
17:30
of I mean certainly there are gemstones
17:34
that have characteristics or different
17:38
qualities like tourmaline can be can
17:41
conduct electricity and there are some
17:45
other gemstones that have some
17:46
interesting characteristics that could
17:48
certainly enhance or interfere you know
17:52
with different kinds of you know
17:54
electrical currents in our own bodies so
17:57
I'm not gonna I'm not gonna say one way
17:59
or the other I've never experimented
18:01
with it but in general I'm not one to
18:04
necessarily believe in it because I
18:06
don't I just I just like I just like and
18:11
appreciate what I know I'm attracted to
18:14
so maybe that's part of it you know um
18:16
like this ring is set with a really
18:19
yummy brilliant purple amethyst and I I
18:25
have it because I liked the stone it was
18:28
just fabulous and I you know I couldn't
18:30
resist it so I think that's what that's
18:34
what I would encourage people to lean
18:35
towards if there's a gemstone you think
18:38
you know has special powers but it's not
18:40
very pretty did it
18:42
yes get something else that you think
18:44
it's really beautiful because it's going
18:45
to you know you're gonna end up plugging
18:47
it more I've become a believer it back
18:50
in our office when we're working under
18:51
office we have some crystals and the Sun
18:54
will shine right upon them at the you
18:56
know perfect time of the day I think it
18:58
brings us some positive energy I'm just
19:00
I became a believer slowly I've
19:01
converted okay and I'm sure that they do
19:06
I think as long as it you know adds some
19:08
joy and happiness and beauty in your
19:10
life of course that's gonna be magical
19:13
and then just one last question here
19:17
what do you see for the future of
19:19
gemstones like the this industry what do
19:21
you see for it in five years do you see
19:22
a maybe going more digital how do you
19:25
see this evolving ah that's interesting
19:28
and we've kind of seen a little glimpse
19:32
of that in a you know hyperspeed mode
19:37
here in the last weeks with the
19:39
coronavirus and and stores and
19:42
businesses having to rely more on
19:44
internet connection so I still believe
19:49
people want to see and touch and feel
19:53
and hold and try on jewelry there's
19:56
nothing more convincing than
19:59
holding a piece of jewelry that
20:01
connection that you get with it right
20:03
away is it's undeniable but seeing as
20:11
that maybe we may not be able to have
20:14
that kind of contact so I think stores
20:17
are going to be more more open to return
20:22
policies and maybe even looking at you
20:26
know some some innovative ways so that
20:29
people can try before they buy as long
20:32
as there are some some you know
20:35
protective measures put in there so in
20:37
case there's damage to the stone or loss
20:39
of the piece so I think we're gonna see
20:42
some innovative ways coming coming down
20:45
the pike on how how shop owners will be
20:49
able to serve their customers
20:52
another thing that starts to happen when
20:54
economy gets a little shaky for some
20:57
people is don't forget about what's in
20:59
your jewelry box right now I mean a lot
21:02
of times we have mismatched earrings
21:04
that are orphans that you can't find the
21:07
other one that could be converted into a
21:08
pendant for a fraction of the cost of a
21:11
new piece so keep that in mind I want to
21:14
keep our listeners thinking about those
21:18
kind of options because a jeweler
21:20
someone who has an on-site jewelry bunch
21:24
who does repairs and custom work they
21:26
can work with things in people's jewelry
21:28
boxes where maybe resetting diamonds
21:31
resetting stones and in pre-existing
21:34
jewelry to make something new so I think
21:36
we're gonna start to see that a lot more
21:39
of that when it comes to someone who
21:41
still wants to give a gift but they may
21:43
not have a big enough budget to buy
21:45
something brand-new done
21:47
just one more thing I want to touch on
21:49
and it's interesting that you said that
21:50
it's it's really all about that tactile
21:53
feeling of when you touch the gemstone
21:56
and you make that personal connection
21:57
with it I see a there's a lot of overlap
22:00
with that with our other categories like
22:01
stamp collectors it's like it's not just
22:03
about collecting it's like just being
22:05
able to hold it and this treasured item
22:07
that you've looked for you hunted for
22:09
and you finally have it what what is it
22:12
about that connection
22:13
like what is it when you see a gem that
22:16
gives you that special connection is
22:17
there something is there a special
22:19
quality that connects you to a piece of
22:21
jewelry or is it unique for every piece
22:23
of jewelry no I like I said I really my
22:28
preference is colored stones and other
22:31
stones that may not be very well-known
22:34
like for instance there's a gemstone
22:40
faster and the jeweler who worked
22:43
together they're a team
22:44
he facets the gemstones and she sets
22:47
them and she's actually the one that
22:50
this ring came from and the gemstone and
22:53
this is a really unique cut so things
22:57
like that really attract me but he had
23:00
an opportunity to access a new variety
23:05
of garnet and most people think garnets
23:08
come in one color red and that's kind of
23:10
what we've been trained it's the it's
23:14
the fallback color for a lot of jewelry
23:16
stores but actually garnets come in
23:18
every color of the rainbow and they're
23:20
absolutely stunning in fact they have
23:24
access to one that changes colors in
23:27
different lights so yeah it's really
23:31
really exciting and these are the kind
23:34
of things I was talking about earlier on
23:36
how I get so excited and I want
23:38
consumers to know about because those
23:41
kind of gemstones there are limited
23:43
there's limited number there's limited
23:47
resources
23:49
there was only one pocket found in one
23:52
area and those are the kind of things
23:54
that are going to hold their value
23:55
because after a certain amount of time
23:57
there's no more it's done there's never
23:59
going to be they're never going to find
24:01
that again so those are the kind of
24:04
things that get me really excited so
24:05
rarity and beauty and color though
24:08
that's what really attracts me and also
24:12
wearability you know is it is it
24:15
something that is going to fit someone's
24:17
lifestyle if if a stone is setting way
24:20
up high and they have an active
24:22
lifestyle then there's you know there's
24:26
some compatibility differences as far as
24:31
the safety of a stone or the setting is
24:33
it going to snag on things so
24:35
practicality and the unusual gemstones
24:40
are what really things to keep in mind
24:42
yeah yeah I just have to say that is a
24:45
beautiful ring to I mean I know we're
24:47
talking digitally but I can see the
24:48
sparkle of the purple of the amethyst
24:50
you know it's crazy this is a piece by a
24:55
designer named her name is Mary van der
24:58
ahe and I'll put I'll post something on
25:01
my tundra group and I'll do a story
25:04
about her she does some amazing things
25:07
and I really appreciate how she and her
25:11
business partner talk his name is Todd
25:13
wax and there they team up together and
25:18
they're one who I always go see and
25:21
Tucson at the popular gem show yeah it's
25:24
a beautiful piece well thank you so much
25:26
Brenna this was great it was so happy
25:28
that I'm sorry to have you and we'll uh
25:31
we'll keep in touch thank you so much
25:33
you know this thing will include all of
25:35
your socials down here at the bottom
25:37
will include links to your podcast links
25:39
to everything okay wonderful thanks so
25:42
much for the opportunity I really
25:43
appreciate it Brian thank you all right
25:45
you have a good one okay you too Thanks
Share
theTUNDRA sits down with Jewelry & Gemstones Enthusiast Brenna Pakes, host of the “Jewelry Navigator” podcast. An experienced gemologist, Brenna discusses the history of her industry and how it has been impacted by the current pandemic.
Comments