I've been surfing my whole life my dad
00:08
put me on a board when I was like three
00:09
years old and he actually went to Maui
00:11
to be a surf bum that's how it all kind
00:13
of started my big competition is surfing
00:15
when I was little but it was just my
00:17
love of it and I was like I just want to
00:19
do it for fun I even loved getting
00:20
pounded out there you know like I just
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love the feel of posing and you know
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kind of in touch with mother nature we
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come to the beach to have fun to relax I
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came here for everything I came here for
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my friends and just the beautiful
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weather and the ocean and the atmosphere
00:45
kind and outgoing super spontaneous like
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people just riding their bikes going to
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the beach we live about 20 minutes from
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Zion National Park in Utah and we love
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it there it's super beautiful but it's
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good to come here because it's a change
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of scenery for me it's just fun it's a
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lifestyle you've got to do a sport and
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be a kata with nature with Beach for me
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just give me energy
01:13
we actually are pretty busy people we
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own our own restaurants so being at the
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beach kind of takes us away from that
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setting of being stressed and everything
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so we're here we're actually enjoying it
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we're having fun we're meeting new
01:26
people and you know we're just loving
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the vibe lets us just take our mind off
01:32
and sit in the ocean and surf and enjoy
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the times well whenever I'm in the water
01:37
it's like it takes all my thoughts away
01:40
it's my meditation in a sense where I'm
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not thinking of anything that I have to
01:44
do or like all my problems I don't like
01:48
big that when tomorrow the water
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the first time i paddleboarded it was
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just like a time in my life where I felt
01:56
like I needed something new when I tried
01:58
it the first time it wasn't scary it was
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more of like either I had a lot of
02:03
adrenaline like I just wanted to do it
02:04
so bad that when I got on you know it
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was like a it was like a yeah like I
02:09
accomplished something if I have to go
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sure if I have to like you know tell
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everybody I love that I want to do all
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these things because I know life is so
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short it's just that kind of way of life
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you know
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[Music]
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More than one million people gathered in sunny Huntington Beach, California to watch the nation's best surfers, skaters, and BMX riders compete for the most respected titles of the Vans U.S. Open of Surfing -- a great time was had by all.
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